Mazda 3 (2010) H11 HID Kit

June 30, 2009

The H11 HID kit that I ordered for my sister’s 2010 Mazda 3.
New MISC 799
New MISC 801
New MISC 803
New MISC 809New MISC 812New MISC 814


Yamaha WR 450 – 4300k Motorcycle HID Conversion kit

June 29, 2009

Hi Steve,

I would like to thank you for your assistance and advice with the HID lights.

I came 3rd outright and second in my class on the WR 450 Yamaha with your 4300 Kelvin HID lights in the states biggest event The 24 hour trial.

We also won the Trade team with G Slattery also running your HID lights on a Yamaha WR 250, D Burman was the 3rd member of the team on a 250 2 stroke that could only run an AC system so did not run HID’s although he wished he could.

Both G and I have used your lights in the Road trial series all year and have had no problems at all with them.

There were a few competitors using other brands but your advice on keeping to a white light was a perfect match to our high/low beam AC system.

Many people watching the event commented that we had the brightest lights with over 140 people competing.

We used them like a high low beam switching them on and off hundreds of times with no problems.

The events we have been riding have a mixture of transport road sections and competitive off road sections racing over rough rocky sections and fast rough undulating tracks.

The photos above were taken with a digital camera and do not give the true brightness of the HID lights that were an amazing increase in what was already a good 140 watt AC system.

When we turned the HID on it more than doubled the area covered by the AC system that we had set up on the bikes.

Once again thanks for a great reliable system.
new image

Lexus ES300 – 9006 4300k Xtreme HID Conversion Kit

June 25, 2009

– 1993 LEXUS ES300


***Before starting any work, I disconnected the negative battery terminal.***

The installation of the kit went very well, but took longer than I expected, mostly due to the lack of space under the hood of the car. I needed to premap the route for the kit’s cabling harnesses so that they wouldn’t come into contact with any belts or potentially hot parts, and locate two points at which I would attach the ground wires. I also needed to remove the car’s two headlight assemblies so as to have more room to work. There was just not enough space to maneuver without doing so. I did not need to remove the assemblies completely but removed the three mounting screws on each and pulled the assemblies forward enough so that I could get my hand in behind and fit the new HID bulbs securely into their housings. Once that was done and the headlight assemblies were screwed back into place, the rest of the installation went quite quickly and without any hitches.

For the right-hand (passenger) side installation: I mounted the ignitor module (zip-tied), relay (zip-tied), and ballast (double-sided foam and zip-tied) next to the windshield washer fluid reservoir (see photo 1).
I zip-tied the ground wire for the RH harness along the hose that goes from the coolant expansion reservoir to the radiator. I connected the ground wire ring connector to a hex-head screw which secures a bracket to the inside of the vehicle’s engine bay (see photo 2).
The part of the harness cable (with fuse holder) that needs to connect to the car’s positive battery terminal, I routed out between the RH headlight assembly and the radiator, across in front of the radiator, and back into the engine bay between the radiator and the LH headlight assembly. I secured this portion of the harness with two zip-ties. There was more than enough cable length left to reach the positive battery terminal.

Photo 1
Ignitor, Ballast, and Relay installation – RH (passenger) side:
Photo 2
Ground wire connection point – RH (passenger) side:
For the left-hand (driver) side installation: I attached the ground wire ring connector to a hex-head screw next to the fuse box and zip-tied the ignitor module to the battery’s front bracket (see photo 3). There was lots of extra length of wiring harness on this side so I coiled it up neatly and zip-tied it and then tucked it down into the pocket behind the LH headlight assembly. I did the same with the relay and the ballast. There was no need to physically mount the ballast to anything on this side as there is absolutely nowhere it can go when it’s tucked snugly into the small area behind the assembly. Once everything else was neat and tidy and ready to go, I connected the two power cable ring connectors to the positive battery terminal, and reconnected the negative battery terminal. Everything was now ready to test.

Photo 3
Ground wire connection point and Ignitor module installation – LH (driver) side:
Beam Comparison Photos

Silverstar Ultra Halogen Low Beams:
halogens4Xenon 4300K Low Beams:
Xenon 4300K Cut-Off:
Note that the right beam is slightly sharper than the left beam. This is due to the brand new headlight assembly recently installed on the right vs. a 15 y.o. headlight assembly on the left. I can live with this as I’m not about to rip the LH assembly apart to clean it or pay major bucks for another new assembly. The outer lens of the LH assembly has been polished and is crystal clear to match the RH side. With the installation of the HIDs, both assemblies provide outstanding night vision.

With regard to the quality of the Xenon Depot kit: I would say it is top-rate. The materials used are of good quality and workmanship, and the kit came with everything needed, including a package of zip-ties, two cut-to-size squares of double-sided foam tape for mounting the ballasts, and a pair of gloves for handling the bulbs (finger prints are a no-no!).
The only thing I would modify in the kit is the shape of the plastic base on the xenon bulbs. The base is round which makes turning the bulb to lock it securely into position in the headlight assembly housing somewhat difficult. I found that because of its shape, I could not get a good grip on the bulb’s base to turn it without it slipping between my fingers. It took several minutes to get both bulbs properly locked into position. A squared or hexagonal shaped base (or a right-angled base such as on the halogen bulbs) would make installation of the xenon bulbs easier.

Honda CBR 954RR 2002 H7 6500k Motorcycle HID Kit

June 22, 2009


I ordered a 6500k Extreme HID kit off you last week for my 2002 Honda CBR954RR custom motorcycle. I got the kit installed and everything works great! The ballast is mounted in the tail section due to the 6ft. of harness where there is plenty of room and where it is out of the way. It looks unbelievable at night! I have included some pics if you would like to post them on your site. I have gotten so many compliments on it and I still have a HUGE motorcycle ralley to take it to this week!

Thanks again for all your help and hopefully I will be sending you some business.

Honda CBR RR

Mazda Miata – H11 5000k HID Conversion kit

June 18, 2009

For more information regarding our Xtreme HID Lighting kits please view this link:


I just completed the installation of the xtreme lights 5000K. Although it was a lot of work, the install came out very nice and clean. I like very much the crisp white of the 5000K.
Thank you very much for returning my phone call today, and for your prompt and excellent service.

G Vega

Acura RSX Testimonial – H1 6000k Volt HID Kit

June 17, 2009

or more information regarding our Xtreme HID Lighting kits please view this link:


*Thanks to Joe Cipolla/J71media

Toyota 4Runner – H11 4300k HID Kit on lows & 9006 3000k

June 16, 2009

Check out some more information regarding our Xtreme HID Lighting kits.
Toyota 4Runner – H11 4300k HID Kit on lows & 9006 3000k HID kit on fogs

Here’s some pictures of XenonDepot’s Xtreme Digital HID 3000k installed in fogs. There was much personal debate if I should get a cheap kit or pay more a quality kit. It’s for fogs and it wouldn’t be used unless in foul weather. But after a while of going back and forth, I decided I bought a 4Runner because of Toyota’s quality (even though they slipped, but still above others) and why should I settle for less with accessories. Another reason for going with a XD kit is the quality of their xenon kits and they supply wiring harnesses. It’s possible maybe it’s an overkill, but why take a chance. With each harness individually fuses, should one the wiring get snagged or grounded, it’s a fuse that’s blown and no harm can be done to vehicle’s electrical system.

I’ve purchased from XD before and it was a smooth and super easy transaction. I have no reservations of going back to XD and highly recommended them before and even more so now. The only difference this time was I had more interaction with Steve, aka XenonDepot on the forum, in regards obtaining the newer style wiring harness for my other car prior to ordering. Steve took care of that. Steve and XD is one of the most respected and professional retailers out there, every other retailer should model their business practices after them.

A special thanks to Steve for addressing my concerns and questions, as well as helping a few members out.

BTW, I have no affliation to XD or Steve other than being a happy and satisfied repeat customer.

Installation is simple just like all the HID kits. The only part that was a little difficult is the 3000k burners are a bit more snug than OEM halogen bulbs when putting them into the fogs. This isn’t even a problem and I see it as a good thing as the seal with the foglight housing is even tighter sealing out moisture since, the fog area can get more wet than the headlights.

Without further to do, pictures…

Goodie box
Gloves to ensure a perfect installation without getting oils and contaminents on the bulbs.
Underneath the gloves, 3000k burners
Ballasts and wiring harnesses (individually fused for each side)
OEM halogen fog
After Fog
Fogs only
From the driver’s side door
3000K HID Fogs and 4300k HID low beam
Behind the wheel
H11 4300k HID Kit for lows and 3000k HID kit for fogs
All of the pictures have no post editing done in Photoshop. The only editing done is resizing, signature and cropping.

The first seven are taken with a point and shoot in full auto mode.

The last eight with the 4Runner are taken with a slow shutter speed to get the proper exposure and no flash. I will have to check, but IIRC they were all done in shutter priority mode. (I was playing around with aperture priority earlier before the pics were taken.)

If anyone wants info on camera settings, I’ll post the EXIF data from the images.